Colombera & Garella – tasting the new releases, visit, Part II

Sometimes things happen and we have no idea why. Try as we might to understand, maybe it’s best to just let it happen. That’s pretty much the feeling I had when I tasted through the wines @ColomberaeGarella today.  During the tasting, a feeling washed across me, then it kind of held me, it resonated in the mind and soul, and its message was “I’m nature, and I’ve been loved, so now, I love you back”.

I have some idea, having been doing this wine/Italian wine thing for ~ 20 years now, of how one gets in touch with the land, how one cares and pays attention, but it’s these times, these rare times, when I taste wines where it’s like someone has not only unlocked all of the secrets of the land, but the land has made the winegrower a partner, and lets them in on the secret handshake, etc. But of course there is no secret handshake, there’s only an ability to listen to the land, to listen to the plants, and to act when they say they need something, and to leave them alone when they don’t. It’s about respect. It’s my experience that this respect is at the root of ‘passion’, too.

2013 Colombera & Garella Bramaterra  (HR+)  {winery visit} Medium garnet core, very bright. Lots of energy on the very clean and lifted nose. Classic aromas presented in a harmonious and exciting package. The palate confirms the color and nose, with a medium body, very elegant lines and much more length (and body) than the color might suggest. ant lines and much more length (and body) than the color might suggest. Citrus, cherries, minerals, soil, and on; dances across the palateIt’s dry, elegant and develops complexity thru night #2. This is so in my wheelhouse. Such care and attention went into this winegrowing; the pick date was spot on. Exciting. 12,5% abv. highly recommended+


2014 Colombera & Garella Coste della Sesia  (R+)  {winery visit} Opened only 30 minutes before the tasting, this is tight, a bit secretive at the moment. In a way it begs for time in decanter, but in another way, it begs for 2 more years of rest, too (and food, but that’s understood). Maybe both. A pure, medium-bodied, red-fruited expression of the place, of grapes (Nebbiolo 65%, Croatina 20%, Vespolina 15%), this is wearing signs of the vintage, as it should be, so there’s a rusticity and brutishness to go along with the feminine underpinnings. Just a whisper of citrus on this one, the nose and palate are more about soil, about dirt, today than anything else; acids and tannins a bit screechy today. Of course, I love this kind of stuff, especially when it’s married to structure and purity. Which is to say I see the potential here, and I think I see what it will become, and I like it, a lot. 12,0% abv., drink 2019-2026recommended+


2013 Colombera & Garella Lessona Pizzaguerra  (HR+)  {winery visit} Like a fussy new-born baby, this is scrambling to adjust to its new environment. That said, this is classic, and for purists of the zone and grape – this will need several years before it’s ready, before it’s in the zone. This has the structure to go decades, no problem, just give it a cold, dark cellar and it will reward, with patience. Understated, with great focus, and, for my palate (in 5-6 years, minimum), exciting. An excellent addition to any collector’s cellar; at a very modest price, too. In 15 years, people will marvel at what this wine has become, and they will lament not having bought it when it was affordable. 12,0% abv., 2021-2038highly recommended+


IMHO, definitely a winery that should be on your radar and/or shopping list if you’re already a fan of the region and winegrapes.

(header photo: the truly unique soils of the sub-zones; notice, too, the wooden case the samples rest upon, no coincidence there…)

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