Az. Agr. Gilberto Boniperti – another rising star in Alto Piemonte

This is a really small winery, but they’re producing some big results. I have to ask myself, is the quality so good because there’s just 3Ha to farm (i.e. because it’s possible to give greater attention to the vines/land than if there were, say 20Ha), or, what might be possible if there were 6Ha, and the (additional) vines were capable of even more complexity? By that logic, I wonder what my experience would have been like if I’d sat down with each of these wines, able to take my time and enjoy them with a meal, too?

Either way, what this producer is doing today is worth taking note of, the wines well worth seeking out; as with many in the area, the price is far below the quality delivered.

If I recall correctly, Cristian Garella is consulting winemaker here; some good, additional, information can be found HERE, on the company website.

Ageing (after 3 weeks of maceration in steel tanks) for some of the wines, will be in a combination of used Allier barrique and 21hl oval casks. These vines, this land has a really good voice if the releases I tasted today are a good representative of this producer’s potential (i.e. it’s my first time tasting any of the Boniperti wines, iirc).

The 3Ha today are planted to Nebbiolo, Vespolina, and Barbera. Thankfully, a rosato is also produced; it’s delicious, fresh and I want some right now.

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2016 Gilberto Boniperti Vino Rosato Rosadisera  (R+)  { #TasteAltoPiemonte } Excellent young rosato, with lovely blend of soil, fruit and freshness. Plenty of energy and bright fruits here to insure this bottle is finished in no time; keen balance, good persistence. Pretty, structured, and easily recommended+. Now thru 2020.

2015 Gilberto Boniperti Colline Novaresi Favolalunga  (NR; too young today)                       { #TasteAltoPiemonte } Tasted just after the rosé (not always a good thing, moving from white or rosé to Vespolina), this presents a dark garnet>ruby color, with rather classic aromas and flavors; medium(-) body, lots of young tannins. The persistence is medium, the acids high; this needs more time (iirc, was only bottled 8 months ago). Give this a year or three in the cellar.

2014 Gilberto Boniperti Colline Novaresi Carlin  (R+)  { #TasteAltoPiemonte } The 2014 Carlin is 100% Nebbiolo, offering a medium>dark garnet core faded to the rim. Initial aromas of are sweet red berries and cherries, but in just a minute, there are wood notes that move in and dominate. From a 2Ha plot, with an annual production of just 5,000 bottles, and is raised in 100% stainless steel. This is painfully young just now. That said, the more I swirled this, the more I could see what’s inside, what the future holds for this wine, and I have to say in 2-3 more years, this is not only going to be completely different than where it is today, but in a more haromic place; even better with 4-5 years of age. Something I would easily have in my cellar. HOLD. recommended+

2014 Gilberto Boniperti Fara Barton  (R+) { #TasteAltoPiemonte } This Fara D.O.C. wine is 70% Nebbiolo and 30% Vespolina. The vines are ~ 15 years of age, and spend about 20 months in 21hl grandi botte after fermenting in stainless steel. This is pretty hard-core stuff just now – packed with power and focus, this will need some more years before it’s fully integrated. That said, there’s a lot to admire here, and the purity of the fruit and sense of place are spot on. Very nice. HOLD. recommended+

2015 Gilberto Boniperti Colline Novaresi Carlin  (R+)  { #TasteAltoPiemonte } 100% Nebbiolo, 20 days on the skins, with malo occuring in stainless tanks. This bottle’s just too young today, or maybe there’s some bottle variation going on, but the aromas are an equal mixture of VA, pomegranate, and some Lysol. On the palate however, I was able to get a read on this, and it’s got really fresh acidity, plenty of tannic structure, with good balance of oak already showing through. In another year, this should be more fully integrated; shows excellent potential. By the final sip, the chemical component of the nose had been replaced by some fennel pollen. Interesting stuff; for a wine meant to drink young, this nonetheless has some legs to stand on for a decade more; easily recommended+, drink 2018-2029

 

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