2004 San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucére

Scores and reviews/descriptors for this wine have been all over the place since this wine’s release (and afterward, too). Some said drink now, other said hold. One critic in particular was far removed from all the others, with his lofty score that that created a price bump on release.

However, the only thing worth commenting on at this point is where this wine is now, and it’s still in a developing stage, with some upside that’s probably worth your patience. If you’re not so patient, you really need to aerate this in decanter for at least two hours for a solid showing.

Either way, this has proven a fair value; a high score (cough!) drove the price up initially, but this is available on the secondary market right now at an attractive value.

The estate and vineyards are located in the northeastern half of Montaclino zone, with north-east facing vines grown at ~ 280m ASL; the soils have elements of clay and limestone as dominant components.

11 March, 2017: 2004 San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere “Pours a med>dark ruby, little sign of age. Takes some time after the cork has been pulled before the fruits emerge, in the meantime, plenty of soil, and dusty leather notes; once the fruit has emerged, all of these aromas integrate to a much more satisfying whole. The palate is med>full, kind of weighty and not so fresh, lifted. However, at the 90 minute mark, the wine finds its stride and has more harmonious composure. This was constantly a love-hate relationship for me. OK, maybe the highs/lows weren’t quite that severe, but there were a lot of moments I was quite glad to be drinking it, and others, I wished I were not. Last year, when I met Roberto Giannelli at the estate he discussed the efforts that have been underway for a decade now, to better understand the soil/land, and improve quality year-over-year; things take time in Italia, though I’ve no doubt that Roberto and his time are following the proper course;  hard work and considerable investment will get them where they want to be. I have a mind to open a 2010 Le Lucére tonight, I think it might be a valuable data point as to their progress. 14,0% abv., drink thru 2027. Two hour aeration is strongly advised.  recommended (R)

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